Submitted by Jim Varcho
Paddlers: Jim Varcho, Brad Greve, David “Ranger” Mize
This canoe trip was planned to be 50+ miles long. We will put in at Moose Lake entry point next to the Boy Scout Base Camp on Tuesday afternoon September 8th. We will travel through Moose, Newfound, Sucker, Birch, Knife, Bonnie, Pickle, Spoon, Kekekabic, Strup, Wisini, Gerund, Fraser, Thomas, Ima, Jordan, Cattyman, Ashigan, Ensign, Splash and finishing our route back through Newfound and Moose Lake, returning to the Moose Lake entry landing on Sunday Sept. 12th.
Jim and Ranger picked me up at 4:30 AM to start our BWCA trip. Jim left home at 4 AM. We arrived at Ely around 2 PM and went to Subway to eat. After eating we were on our way to the Moose Lake entry point. We then unpacked the car and portaged the canoe and gear to the launch.
We were off and paddling at 3:30 PM. We paddle through Moose, Newfound, Sucker Lake. and a 5 rd portage into Birch Lake. There are at least 8 campsites on Birch Lake. We paddle east to get closer to the portage to Carp Lake. We were targeting the third site on the south shore but it was occupied so we took the 4th site that was open. It was 6 PM as we arrived at the campsite and we went to work setting up camp, while we were getting a few sprinkles of rain. As it would be throughout our trip—Ranger cut wood and started a fire. We had a fire tonight and again in the morning.
Day 2—Wednesday September 9th, 2020
We will have 5 portages today to get to Knife Lake. We plan to visit “Thunder Point” and camp on Kinfe Lake for the night.
We are up today around 7:30 AM. Ranger started a fire and we boiled water for breakfast of oatmeal, apple cider and hot chocolate. It is really foggy this morning but after breakfast and packing up camp, we head out into the fog on a calm lake.
Portages – 40 rd Birch to Carp, 25 rd and 15 rd Carp to Seed, Seed to 15 rd and 75 rd Big Knife Portage
As we approach our first portage the fog had mostly lifted and it was the beginning of a nice day. We discuss the direction of the water flow and Jim got it right. This portage is 46 rd and nothing unusual. We left Birch Lake and entered Carp Lake… After a short paddle it’s a 25 rd portage called “Carp Portage”. Next is a 15 rd portage from Carp to Seed Lake.
We continue paddling heading into a shallow stream and finally find the portage after Ranger walked the canoe about 50 yards up the stream. Great scenery here at this portage landing and stream so we take some time to enjoy the view. We complete the 15 rd portage into Portage Lake and then off to the “Big Knife Portage” which is 75 rds long. We finished this portage and were in South Knife Lake at noon.
We paddle in South Knife Lake past Robbins Island and then to the south shore to find a campsite to eat lunch. We have chicken salad with crackers and bar’s for dessert.
After lunch our next destination is “Thunder Point” which is a high overlook with a great view. The view is to the west back where we had traveled from today. This spot is also now know for its cell service. Nathan had called me from here last summer. It is an exhilarating hike up to the top and then the great view.
We were not the only ones here today and met a young couple at the top that were doing a canoe trip for their honeymoon. We took turns taking pictures of our groups.
After enjoying our stop at Thunder Point we head south to the first campsite and it was open . We all agreed we would camp here tonight. We arrived here at 3:00 PM after traveling 9.7 miles today. By 3:30 we had camp set up and Ranger had a fire going. Ranger and I took the canoe out to do some fishing. While it was a nice paddle along the shore to the south and out and around a small island west of camp, as far as fishing we came up empty. Back at camp we fixed supper. Mountain House Beef Stew and vanilla pudding.
We spent the remainder of the evening enjoying the view and taking pictures of the beautiful sunset. We also enjoyed the campfire and telling stories from past trips. We were all in the tent for the night by 9 PM. Last night’s low temp was 34 degrees and we are hoping it stays a little warmer tonight. It was an all-around great day of paddling which started with a foggy morning but turned into a sunny day with calm waters and easy paddling.
Day 3:
Up in the morning at 6:30 and have breakfast of sunshine potatoes, apple cider or hot chocolate. Everything is dry this morning so it is no problem packing up. Our portage is only a short distance to the east where we will head south to Bonnie Lake. The portage to Bonnie is 33 rds long. Next a 25 rd portage to Spoon Lake and 25 rds to Pickle Lake.
Keckerbic Lake we head south west quartering the waves as we have a wind in our face. We make near the southeast shore and head directly south to find a campsite for lunch and our portage to Strup Lake.
Lunch of cheese and summer sausage on crackers. We have a good lunch and then it is time to move on to our 85 rd portage to Strup Lake. We have a steep climb right off of the lake with a couple other ups and downs. We paddle across Strup to the 10 rd portage to Wisini Lake. We paddle to the east to look at the campsite and it is not where the map shows it, but it is further east.
As we leave we lose our gallon water jug in the lake. We chased it for a couple laps before we caught it. We moved on to find the next campsite.
WOW! This is what we found! Huge rock and nicely stepped to the top, although the steps were around 3’ high each. It did allow for unloading the canoe and getting gear up into the camp. We all agreed this was the camp for tonight and it is a great site.
We traveled 7.8 miles today. We left camp this morning at 8:52 AM and arrived at our Wasini Lake camp at 3:30 PM. The wind had calmed and the skies were clear. The bright sunshine warmed us up and dried out our gear. We set up our camp and then relaxed. Jim found the perfect place to sit and look out over the lake. Ranger and I fish off of the rock.
The sun was warm and shining brightly on the camp all afternoon. We had supper of Mountain House Sweet and Sour Port with Rice. And pudding for dessert. After supper we got our sleeping gear set up in the tent and then watched the sunset. Great day of paddling. Some wind on Kecerbec but calm the rest of the day.
Day 4:
Up at 6:30 AM to a bright sunny day. We have oatmeal and apple cider or hot chocolate for breakfast. We pack up and take time to enjoy the last of this view and great campsite. Next job is to get the canoe in the water and load the canoe. Although this high camp looks like a challenge to get in and out of the canoe, the stepped rock makes it fairly simple. We paddle south toward the 90 rd portage to Ahmahose Lake be get the view of these cliffs. Then 30 rd to Gerund Lake where we met 3 couples headed toward Wisini. Lake and were glad to hear the “Wisini Hilton had a vacancy. On our double portage we carried some of their gear on our return trip. Next is a 15 rd portage to Fraser Lake and the Fraser/Thomas Narrows.
After the narrows we head northwest on Thomas Lake and check out the first 2 campsites. The first site is occupied but the 2nd one is open and we decide to have lunch here. Its 11 AM. Tuna and crackers for lunch. After lunch we continue northwest to find the 10 rd portage to Thomas Pond. We had a debate on which direction we should go and Jim and I lost. Ranger was right—he was reading the map and using a compass and Jim and I were using the GPS.
We completed the 10 rd portage and quick paddle then 3 more short portages along the stream that takes us past Hatchet Lake. This stream has some shallow areas and at one point out of the portage Ranger and I got out of the canoe to walk it through the shallows. Fortunately, this shallow area has a solid bottom. In my experience a lot of these shallow streams have a soft muddy bottom that will be knee deep.
After navigating the stream we arrive at the 50 rd portage to Ima Lake. As we arrive the group we have been following is on the portage and a young gal is cleaning the canoe. Wiping the mud out with a towel. This group had a solo canoe and a 3 person canoe. Both canoes looked brand new and of the ultra-lite variety. As they loaded their canoes and were getting in we heard the young gal say “thats why we can’t have anything nice” as the others got into the canoe with muddy shoes.
We head out into Ima toward the north end of the big island and the campsite there. Jim and I stayed in this campsite in on a previous trip and liked it.
We arrived here after traveling 8.4 miles. We arrived at 2:30 PM.
It was great weather all day and was sunny and warm when we got to camp. Jim and I tested some of the possible tent areas by taking a nap. Rested up it was time to set up the tent.
One of the considerations today was that it is supposed to rain tonight and we don’t want to be in a low area where the water might pool. We were able to confirm the weather forecast by text message. Jim and I set up the tent and Ranger set up a tarp to protect our gear. Mountain House Beef Stroganoff and pudding for supper. The good weather continued to the end of the day with a great sunset. Off to bed around 9 PM with rain gear in the tent in preparation for the morning.
Day 5:
We had early morning rain showers. I got up at 6:30 and put on my rain gear and headed out of the tent. We had a couple of showers during breakfast but were able to get packed up and ready to go.
As we are ready to launch we continue to have a mist on the lake. At 8:15 AM we paddle west to find the 5 rd portage to Jordan Lake.
We complete the short portage and then paddle in the narrow channel to the main lake and then a northwest paddle across the lake to the 55 rd portage to Cattyman Lake and an opportunity to see the Cattyman Falls. While viewing the falls Ranger’s map fell out of his pocket and down the falls. As you can see by the pictures there is not much water in the falls right now but it still took a while for Ranger to find his map but he did find it.Next we portage 25 rds to Gibson Lake, 105 rds to Ashigan Lake and 55 rds to Ensign Lake.
I have been through Cattyman Lake a few times before but never on this portage as our previous trips were from Disappointment Lake on to Jordan and beyond. With higher water levels this would be a great water fall. But the low water levels gave us a chance to inspect the falls area up close.
On the portage from Ashigan to Ensign is an example of the great work that the forest service crews and other volunteer groups do to keep the trails in good shape for us. This board walk keeps us up and out of the knee deep mud.
Paddling through Ensign I am finally quick enough to get pictures of the loons.
On the portage from Ashigan the crew going the opposite direction told me that Ensign Lake was really busy and open campsites are hard to find. We paddle west and enjoy the paddle. Half way up the lake we see a couple of eagles diving down toward the lake near a campsite where a seagull is messing around near shore. The eagles move on but as we get closer we can see the seagull dragging a fish on the shore. We were able to find a campsite that was on our GPS but not on the Fisher mapl. When we arrive at the camp we were greeted by the welcoming committee.
We arrived at camp at 1:15 PM. We got lunch food out and immediately were greeted by the chipmunk. We had lunch of crackers, peanut butter and jelly.
After lunch it was time to set up camp. Ranger is going to bivouac tonight so he set up his tarp while Jim and I set up the tent.
Jim did some hiking and Ranger and I went fishing. Not much luck again. Mountain House and pudding for dinner tonight.
Day 6:
We are up at 6 AM today, our last day of this BWCA trip. The overnight low was 52 degrees and we would have a high temp of 62 degrees. Breakfast of oatmeal with apple cider/hot chocolate. After breakfast we pack up for the last time and prepare for the final 8.3 miles to Moose Lake landing. We start paddling today at 8:10 AM with a little breeze in our face. We portage 5 rds to Splash Lake and then 30 rds to Newfound Lake. As we get into Newfound the wind starts to pick up and becomes stronger and still in our face. Paddling in Newfound a canoe came up behind us with a young man and his 6 year old daughter. We had a brief discussion and then he had to stop and move a pack up front with his daughter to keep the front of the canoe down in the wind. In the end he beat us to the Moose Landing. Its 11:00 AM and now we switch to traveling by car for our return home.
